When the ice lets go: a fjord road trip

In late spring, the snowmelt turns every fjord waterfall into a roar. The valleys go an impossible green while the peaks are still white, and the summer tour buses haven't arrived yet.

Check which mountain roads have reopened before you plan a route, since some high passes stay closed well into spring. Build in slack for stopping, because you'll stop constantly.

You'll stop constantly. Build it in.

Stay in small guesthouses rather than big hotels, eat waffles at every ferry crossing, and give yourself one day with no plan at all.